Behind the Suit is a series by Koviem where we take you behind the scenes of the custom suiting world. Inspired by questions from our curious clients, this series aims to be an educational experience for all of our readers. Have a question about custom suiting? Let us know here.

If you've had a good look at the Koviem website, you have probably noticed that almost all of our suits are made using wool. One of the amazing things about suiting is that the fabric options are virtually limitless! Beautiful suits can be made from a combination of wool, silk, cashmere, linen, cotton and many other fabrics. We generally choose wool because of it's versatility and seamless fit in the modern woman's lifestyle.  

Some questions that we get a lot include:

What fabric is the best for my climate?

Is this wool “suitable” for me to wear in the summer/winter?

Is suiting wool the same kind of wool as my favorite sweater?

  

What is Wool?

Wool is a type of fiber that is obtained from sheep (and sometimes other animals). It is used for fabrics because it is easy to spin due to the fact that it's fibers easily attach to each other. Wool is a natural fiber. Unlike synthetic fibers (like polyester), the fibers in wool are naturally breathable. The natural crimping of the fibers allow air to pass through the fabric to cool the body. Wool is used for a myriad of clothing items and has historically been the fabric of choice for high-quality suit-making. 

How is wool made into fabric?

Wool goes through extensive manipulation in its journey to becoming the fabric we are used to seeing. To begin the process, the sheep must be sheered by a professional. This generally happens once a year. 

Next, the wool is sorted to determine grades and classes based on factors such as fiber length, color, and strength. The wool is then washed to remove debri.

Finer, longer wool fibers are combed to make worsted yarn. This yarn is then woven into fabric on looms. Different patterns are created by lifting the threads in different sequences or by using different colored yarns. Types of fabric made from wool include broadcloth, gabardine, herringbone, houndstooth and tweed. 

Why is wool a solid choice for custom suiting?

To be quite honest, before I got my first custom suit, I also had the same questions. People not familiar with custom suiting associate wool with the bulky sweater they wear when the temperature drops. Here’s some news for you! You can wear our suiting wool in ALL CLIMATES. Before you get skeptical, here’s a little bit of education on it’s an amazing year-round fabric.

• Wool is durable. If you store and clean your suit properly, a custom suit can last for years.

• Wool is naturally wrinkle free. If you have ever gotten a suit that wrinkles ever time you sat down, chances are that it wasn’t wool.

• Wool has different weights. For optimal versatility, Koviem utilizes a light, all-season weight wool. The beauty of this fabric is that it is breathable enough to wear in the heat but insulating in cooler weather.

Here in New York, we experience huge swings between seasons. The sweltering heat in the summer is later eclipsed by the biting chill in the winter. Having an all-season, wool suit has been key for me as I’m able to wear my favorite pieces year-round.

If you have any other questions about wool, suiting fabrics, or custom suiting, feel free to send us a message and we’d be happy to help.

Happy suiting!